【Okinawa】Nakijin Castle Ruins & Bise Fukugi Tree Road – Okinawa’s history and spectacular views

Okinawa once had several castles (Gusuku), including Shuri Castle. Five of these castles are registered as a World Heritage Site, “Gusuku and Related Properties of the Kingdom of the Ryukyus,” as important ruins that show the history and culture of the Ryukyu Kingdom. This time, we visited one of these, Nakijin Castle Ruins, located in the northern part of Okinawa’s main island.

About Nakijin Castle Ruins

Nakijin Castle Ruins is the remains of a castle that was once the base of the Hokuzan Kingdom before the establishment of the Ryukyu Kingdom. Built on a plateau about 100m above sea level, the castle’s vast stone walls create a beautiful contrast with the blue sky and sea, making you feel as if you have traveled back in time.

History of Nakijin Castle

Nakijin Castle is one of the oldest castles in the Ryukyu Islands, and is thought to have been built between the end of the 13th century and the 14th century. It was built as the residence of the Hokuzan King, who ruled the northern part of Okinawa’s main island in the 14th century, but when Sho Hashi unified Ryukyu in the early 15th century, the Hokuzan Kingdom was destroyed. After that, this place became one of the important bases of the Ryukyu Kingdom. It fell into decline from around the 16th century and was gradually abandoned, but the local people have continued to protect the castle ruins as a sacred place.

Differences Between Castles in Mainland Japan and Okinawa

Castles in mainland Japan and Okinawa (called “Gusuku” in Okinawan) have major differences in structure, purpose, and construction techniques. First, let’s briefly review how they are different.

• Structure & Construction
  – Japanese castles had high towers (tenshu) and multiple enclosures (“Honmaru,” “Ninomaru”) for protection.
  – Okinawan castles used curved stone walls for both strength and beauty, often built on hills.
• Warfare Differences
  – Mainland castles were used for military defense and saw battles involving guns and archers.
  – Okinawan castles were more focused on diplomacy and trade, rather than warfare.
• Cultural Influence
  – Mainland castles reflected samurai culture, with grand architectural styles.
  – Okinawan castles were influenced by China and Southeast Asia, with more practical and minimalist designs.
  

Highlights of Nakijin Castle Ruins

Its greatest feature is its magnificent stone wall, which stretches for a total of 1.5 km. It is made by skillfully stacking natural stones called Nozurazumi, and its curved lines resemble the writhing of a giant snake. The view from the top of this stone wall is spectacular, and you can see all the way to the East China Sea.

The Heiromon Gate is the main gate of the castle, and is the entrance to the castle grounds. The gate we see today was restored in 1962 during the Ryukyu Government era. It appears in the Ryukyu Kingdom Origin Record as “The king of Hokuzan protects the main gate and the Heiromon Gate.”

The stone steps extending in a straight line from Heiromon Gate were constructed in the 1960s, and originally used as a stone-paved path. It makes use of a winding valley between large rocks, and for defensive purposes, it is a narrow, steep uphill path.

Umya is a place where political and religious ceremonies are thought to have had a similar function to Shuri Castle’s Una.

The main bailey was the most central building in the castle. It is believed that the main bailey, north hall, and south hall were arranged around a large garden.

Going further in, you will come to a place called Shigemajokaku. It is believed that the people who served the castle lord lived here, and excavations have revealed that there were four buildings here.

Uchibaru is said to have once been the location of the “Ladies’ Quarters.” The view from the northern end is the best in the area, and it is a spectacular spot from which you can see the stone walls, the entire Nakijin village, and even Yoron Island in the distance on a clear day.

Nakijin Castle Ruins is a popular cherry blossom viewing spot, where the Kanhizakura bloom in full glory from mid-January to early February every year. I visited in early January, but some trees were already in bloom. I was happy to see the cherry blossoms a little less than three months earlier than in Tokyo.

Although almost all that remains are stone walls, it was a good opportunity to learn about the role and history of gusuku in the Ryukyu Islands, and how castles are different from those in mainland Japan. I was also fascinated by the beautiful contrast between the long stone walls and the sea, and one of my favorite places in Okinawa has been added to my list.

After enjoying Nakijin Castle, we visited the Bise Fukugi Tree Road, about a 10-minute drive from the Nakijin Castle ruins.

Bise Fukugi Tree Road

Located in Motobu Town, Bise Fukugi Tree Road is a place enveloped in silence, as if time had stopped. Approximately 20,000 Fukugi trees are lined up, creating a beautiful path that looks like a green tunnel. This tree-lined path was originally planted as a windbreak for the village, but is now a valuable tourist spot that preserves the original scenery of Okinawa.

Fukugi trees are lined up throughout this area, so you can adjust the time you spend walking around as you like. As you stroll through the alleys, you will come across Okinawan-style sasa and hibiscus. I realized that this is a place where you can enjoy a once-in-a-lifetime encounter in the silence.

The word “Ishiganto (石敢當)” can be seen everywhere in Okinawa. I wondered what it was, and when I looked it up, I found out it was a talisman. It is placed at the end of a T-junction or a three-way intersection, and is said to have the role of preventing evil things (demons and evil spirits) from entering the house. It is believed that demons can only move in a straight line, and they are shattered when they hit an ishiganto. It is said that it originally originated from Chinese feng shui, and this is probably a custom unique to Okinawa, where trade was thriving.

On the way back to the parking lot after a stroll around the area, we discovered a spot where we could see the ocean through the rows of Fukugi trees! It was a moment of relaxation for me.

What did you think? This time we introduced the Nakijin Castle ruins and the Fukugi tree lined streets of Bise in the northern area of ​​Okinawa’s main island. We hope this article will be helpful for your trip to Okinawa.